Starch method appliqué

I’d like to share a method of preparing fabric for appliqué that I tried for the first time recently and really liked.

Using this method, prepared appliqué shapes may be hand or machine sewn to background fabric leaving a nice turned edge.

Here are the steps:

1. Create your template.  I used a sheet of mylar template plastic to create my templates.  Mylar is easy to work with – easy to trace onto and cut with scissors.  It will also withstand heat from an iron.  Trace the appliqué motif onto the template with a permanent marker and cut the shape out exactly on the drawn lines.  It’s helpful to label each template, not only to avoid confusion when positioning the components according to the pattern, but also in determining the right side from the wrong side of the template itself.  I didn’t use registration marks because of the simplicity of the motif, but for more complex designs, I would use registration marks to help align and position the shapes.

Pictured above: Appliqué motif printed from EQ5. I’ve labeled the components according to which color fabric is used for each.  The transparent mylar sheet is on top of the design.

2. Trace around the downward facing template onto the back side of the fabric.  To clarify, both the wrong side of the fabric and template will be facing up.  Cut around the marked shape leaving a 1/4″ – 3/8″ seam allowance.  (Do as I say, not as I do!  I marked all my appliqué pieces with the template right-side up – and also pictured it along the way.  Luckily it didn’t matter in this particular design but don’t get caught making this same mistake!)

3. Clip halfway into the seam allowances as necessary so that curved edges will easily turn under.

4.  Apply starch to seam allowances.  Spray a small amount of spray starch into a small container (you can use the lid of the spray starch can).  Using a paintbrush or Q-tip, apply to seam allowances. Tip: I used a small pressing mat covered with an old (but clean) rag to work on in order to protect my pressing surfaces from excess starch.

5.   Position the template wrong side up on the back side of the fabric.

6. Press the seam allowances over the edges of the template.  When pressing points, press the peak down first, and then each side as shown below.  Since the bottom edge of the appliqué shape will be covered by another appliqué piece, I didn’t turn that edge.

The iron I used is a mini craft iron made by Clover that’s the perfect tool for this job.  These irons are also great for paper piecing.  Tip: placing a mini iron into a glass or ceramic cup between uses while it’s hot will prevent it from easily being knocked over and also makes it more convenient to grab onto.

7. Set the appliqué shape by pressing it again from the right side.  The template plastic should still be intact.

8.  Remove template.

This piece is now ready to be stitched into place.  More on that later…

Like I said before, I’m a rookie at this technique, if you have a tip to share, please leave it in a comment.